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| 4: '''Read further''' on the [http://www.sprocketschool.org/wiki/Resources Resources] page. | | 4: '''Read further''' on the [http://www.sprocketschool.org/wiki/Resources Resources] page. |
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| ==Kneel Before ZOD==
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| '''These are some screening room booth policies. It was assumed the reader knew how to do the tasks specified.'''
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| Check heads and tails of all reels.
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| Remake any questionable splices.
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| Remove ALL extraneous tape (masking tape etc.)
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| Remove any multiple extra frames caused by platter people cutting instead of peeling open an old splice.
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| Conserve all frames if possible at all. Exception: If it’s just black and silent.
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| We remove multiple layers of splicing tape. Head leader should be spliced both sides. Tail leaders can be left single sided unless doing so leaves exposed sticky surface then cover it.
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| ANY SPLICE WHERE YOU CANNOT SEE THE 4-PERF PROGRESSION ON BOTH SIDES MUST BE PULLED THROUGH THE MEASURING DEVICE TO CHECK FRAMING.
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| Hand scribed dots should be measured on at least a few reels to make sure what standard they are using and whether they are consistent from reel to reel. If not take notes and adjust lace-up of subsequent reels.
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| Try to avoid making extra dots. For example if C/O dots are too close to end make new ones but then measure the new distance to the motor dots rather than making new motor dots.
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| The standard I use for new dots is 22 frames to end (including the C/O dot frames) and 10’ 8 frames in between motor and C/O dots EXCLUDING dot frames. Once the C/O dots are made when you measure from before the first C/O dot back to before where the first motor dot will go the counter should be 10’ 12" since the measure will be including the motor dot frames.
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| INSPECTION SHOULD RESULT IN PRINT ON HOUSE REELS ATTACHED USING SLOTS NOT TAPE.
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