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[[File:Kinoton and Ballantyne Aperture Plates.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Kinoton and Ballantyne aperture plates: identical except for the plastic handle.]] | [[File:Kinoton and Ballantyne Aperture Plates.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Kinoton and Ballantyne aperture plates: identical except for the plastic handle.]] | ||
Each projector manufacturer (Century, Simplex, Kinoton) has different aperture plates, and most vary model to model. Most are not interchangeable, with the exception of Ballantyne Pro 35 and most Kinoton/Norelco/ | Each projector manufacturer (Century, Simplex, Kinoton) has different aperture plates, and most vary model to model. Most are not interchangeable, with the exception of Ballantyne Pro 35 and most Kinoton/Norelco/Philips models. | ||
'''"Fuzzy Edges" and [[Masking]]:''' Even the most perfectly cut aperture plate will not have a perfectly sharp edge. Because the film and the edge of the plate are not on the same focal plane, there will be a | '''"Fuzzy Edges" and [[Masking]]:''' Even the most perfectly cut aperture plate will not have a perfectly sharp edge. Because the film and the edge of the plate are not on the same focal plane, there will be a soft shadow on all edges of the image. To eliminate the soft edge, most venues will bring their masking in to cover these shadows. It is common practice to over-cut aperture plates very slightly so that the shadow spills onto the masking. | ||
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'''Cutting Aperture Plates:''' Aperture plates are typically cut using flat files that are blank on two sides. Ideally the technician or projectionist will begin with a plate that is "pre-cut" for their aspect ratio, but in some cases will have to use what is available, for example cutting a 1.66 plate out of a 1.85 plate. '''IMPORTANT:''' Projectors must be cleaned thoroughly after plates are cut. Stray bits metal can work their way into the film path and scratch the film. | '''Cutting Aperture Plates:''' Aperture plates are typically cut using flat files that are blank on two sides. Ideally the technician or projectionist will begin with a plate that is "pre-cut" for their aspect ratio, but in some cases will have to use what is available, for example cutting a 1.66 plate out of a 1.85 plate. '''IMPORTANT:''' Projectors must be cleaned thoroughly after plates are cut. Stray bits metal can work their way into the film path and scratch the film. | ||
[[File:Apertureplates.JPG|thumb|300px|Aperture plates from a [[Kinoton]] 35mm projector (top), a [[Century C]] 35mm projector, and a [[Simplex | [[File:Apertureplates.JPG|thumb|300px|Aperture plates from a [[Kinoton]] 35mm projector (top), a [[Century C]] 35mm projector, and a [[Simplex X-L]] 35mm projector]]. | ||
[[File:Apertureplate-norelco.jpg|thumb|300px|Aperture plate from a [[Norelco AAII]]]] | [[File:Apertureplate-norelco.jpg|thumb|300px|Aperture plate from a [[Norelco AAII]]]] | ||
[[Category:Equipment]] | [[Category:Equipment]] | ||
[[Category:Projector components]] | |||
[[Category:Technique]] |
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