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==How to make grease cues==
==How to make grease cues==
*WEAR GLOVES and ALWAYS MARK THE BASE SIDE. Mark your changeover and motor cues over 4 frames. Because you have the film running tails to heads on the rewind and you’ll be marking the base side you will have to flip the film over (just a loose twist), so the film is base up. Mark the cues on the side opposite the soundtrack on the top of the frame. Just a short dash from the corner in towards the center a few centimeters will do. As small as you can while still being able to see it.   
*WEAR GLOVES and ALWAYS MARK THE BASE SIDE. Mark your changeover and motor cues over 4 frames. Because you have the film running tails to heads on the rewind and you’ll be marking the base side you will have to flip the film over (just a loose twist), so the film is base up. Mark the cues on the side opposite the soundtrack on the top of the frame. Just a short dash from the corner in towards the center a few centimeters will do. As small as you can while still being able to see it.   
* That extra footage is to account for the time it takes for the motor to ramp up. Some projector motors are slower in which case you might thread to a lower number to make up for that. If a film has been previously cued but say the changeover cue has been spliced off, you may want to count back less than 18 frames to avoid clipping anymore of the film than you have to. I would say 12 at the minimum to avoid having a pretty bad changeover.  
* You may notice that the length of film between the number you thread to on the countdown and the first image is longer than the amount of footage between cues. That extra footage is to account for the time it takes for the motor to ramp up. Some projector motors take longer to come up to constant speed, in which case you might thread to a lower number to make up for that. Get to know the projector you're working with and run test reels so you can determine the correct number to thread to.
*Making cues on a fade out:  If there’s no splice to help you, look for when the audio ends and use your best judgement. There should be a lab splice or a splice from the negative that you can count back 172 frames from. If you’re comfortable you can do a changeover on a fadeout with just the motor cue, use your ears for the change over cue!
*If a film has been previously cued but say the changeover cue has been spliced off, you may want to count back less than 18 frames to avoid clipping anymore of the film than you have to. I would say 10 at the minimum to avoid having a pretty bad changeover.  
*Making cues on a fade out:  If there’s no splice to help you, look for when the audio ends and use your best judgement. There should be a lab splice or a splice from the negative that you can count back 172 frames from so you can mark your motor cue. You won't need to make a changeover cue, because the fadeout itself will be your cue.




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