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Framing: Difference between revisions
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Sometimes called "neutralizing the Geneva" which refers to the internal mechanism. Making sure your intermittent is both centered (we'll go over how to do that in the framing mechanism section) and in a neutral position in relation to the [[Geneva mechanism]] is a must before starting any show. Neutralizing the intermittent must be done before threading a projector EVERY SINGLE TIME no matter what, regardless of whether or not your framing has been re-adjusted. | Sometimes called "neutralizing the Geneva" which refers to the internal mechanism. Making sure your intermittent is both centered (we'll go over how to do that in the framing mechanism section) and in a neutral position in relation to the [[Geneva mechanism]] is a must before starting any show. Neutralizing the intermittent must be done before threading a projector EVERY SINGLE TIME no matter what, regardless of whether or not your framing has been re-adjusted. | ||
*To place it in a neutral position, place your fingers on the intermittent sprocket and advance manually. The intermittent sprocket does not rotate continuously, but in steps. Once it's completed a full rotation and stopped, it will be in a neutral position. You should be able to rock the manual advance back and forth a little bit with the intermittent sprocket remaining still. | *To place it in a neutral position, place your fingers on the intermittent sprocket and advance manually. The intermittent sprocket does not rotate continuously, but in steps. Once it's completed a full rotation and stopped, it will be in a neutral position. You should be able to rock the manual advance back and forth a little bit with the intermittent sprocket remaining still. | ||
===The Framing Mechanism=== | ===The Framing Mechanism=== | ||
*From the [[Century]] Projector Manual: "''Rotation of the FRAME knob on the front of the projector causes the intermittent to move up and down. Observe the upper and lower limits of intermittent travel, and position the intermittent at the center of its travel. This will insure adequate movement up or down to correct accidental misframes. Always "center" the intermittent in this manner before threading.''" | *From the [[Century]] Projector Manual: "''Rotation of the FRAME knob on the front of the projector causes the intermittent to move up and down. Observe the upper and lower limits of intermittent travel, and position the intermittent at the center of its travel. This will insure adequate movement up or down to correct accidental misframes. Always "center" the intermittent in this manner before threading.''" | ||
*If you are working with a [[Simplex XL]] you'll noticed the intermittent does not move up and down like the Century, but rotates. The same principle applies, position the intermittent at the center of its rotation, make sure the intermittent is in a neutral position, and then thread the film. | *If you are working with a [[Simplex XL]] you'll noticed the intermittent does not move up and down like the Century, but rotates. The same principle applies, position the intermittent at the center of its rotation, make sure the intermittent is in a neutral position, and then thread the film. | ||
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*If the framing is adjusted while the film is running and the operator fails to reset it before the next reel, you may attempt to adjust the framing AGAIN and discover that you have reached the limits of the framing mechanism. I.e you adjust the framing all the way in one direction but the picture is still out of frame on screen, and you can move the framing mechanism no more. At this point the operator must stop the film, reset the framing mechanism to center, neutralize the geneva, re-thread, and start the film again. Not only is this bad showmanship, but stopping the film on picture can cause scratches. | *If the framing is adjusted while the film is running and the operator fails to reset it before the next reel, you may attempt to adjust the framing AGAIN and discover that you have reached the limits of the framing mechanism. I.e you adjust the framing all the way in one direction but the picture is still out of frame on screen, and you can move the framing mechanism no more. At this point the operator must stop the film, reset the framing mechanism to center, neutralize the geneva, re-thread, and start the film again. Not only is this bad showmanship, but stopping the film on picture can cause scratches. | ||
==Inspection== | ===Inspection=== | ||
Things to look for during the [[Inspection]] process in regards to framing are: | Things to look for during the [[Inspection]] process in regards to framing are: | ||
*check splices! Make that any frames spliced together are COMPLETE frames. The number of perfs in a complete frame will depend on what film gauge you are working with, 4 perfs for 35mm, 2 perfs for 16mm, 5 perfs for 5/70mm etc. If an incomplete frame (a frame a perf or two cut off) attached to a complete frame will cause the film to "jump" out of frame during your screening. | *check splices! Make that any frames spliced together are COMPLETE frames. The number of perfs in a complete frame will depend on what film gauge you are working with, 4 perfs for 35mm, 2 perfs for 16mm, 5 perfs for 5/70mm etc. If an incomplete frame (a frame a perf or two cut off) attached to a complete frame will cause the film to "jump" out of frame during your screening. | ||