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Kelmar RTV-8900: Difference between revisions
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The '''Kelmar RTV-8900''' is a versatile rewind table that can accommodate [[16mm]], [[35mm]], and [[70mm]] film, and provides excellent control of motor speed and holdback tension. It features a variable speed bidirectional motor, an adjustable friction clutch for regulating feed tension, interchangeable [[rewind spindles|spindles]] to accommodate various [[film gauges]] and reel sizes, a built-in light box for [[inspection|film inspection]], and an automatic rewind system. The RTV-8900 comes in a full-size 24” deep version or a slim 14” version. A model with two power heads is also available. | The '''Kelmar RTV-8900''' is a versatile [[rewind bench|rewind table]] that can accommodate [[16mm]], [[35mm]], and [[70mm]] film, and provides excellent control of motor speed and holdback tension. It features a variable speed bidirectional motor, an adjustable friction clutch for regulating feed tension, interchangeable [[rewind spindles|spindles]] to accommodate various [[film gauges]] and reel sizes, a built-in light box for [[inspection|film inspection]], and an automatic rewind system. The RTV-8900 comes in a full-size 24” deep version or a slim 14” version. A model with two power heads is also available. | ||
The control unit and rewinds can also be attached to other tables (ex., to replace hand-crank rewinds on vintage rewind benches). | The control unit and rewinds can also be attached to other tables (ex., to replace hand-crank rewinds on vintage rewind benches). | ||
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*Make sure that the spindles are fully seated. If not, they can shift towards the operator, resulting in a misaligned film path and improper rotation. | *Make sure that the spindles are fully seated. If not, they can shift towards the operator, resulting in a misaligned film path and improper rotation. | ||
*When winding backwards off the takeup reel, make sure to set the takeup direction to neutral and rotate the reel backwards with your hand (do NOT pull on the film to rewind it, which will cause cinch scratching). Reversing the motor direction to feed the film back for long distances is not advisable because it gives you less control, and it risk spilling film onto the floor. | *When winding backwards off the takeup reel, make sure to set the takeup direction to neutral and rotate the reel backwards with your hand (do NOT pull on the film to rewind it, which will cause cinch scratching). Reversing the motor direction to feed the film back for long distances is not advisable because it gives you less control, and it risk spilling film onto the floor. | ||
*The guide roller on the automatic rewind arm can sometimes help achieve a smoother wind for film that is spooling unevenly. However, for archival projection it is often better to remove the roller so that it is not an obstacle in the film path. If you do use it, clean it with alcohol before each | *The guide roller on the automatic rewind arm can sometimes help achieve a smoother wind for film that is spooling unevenly. However, for archival projection it is often better to remove the roller so that it is not an obstacle in the film path. If you do use it, clean it with alcohol before each use. If a white roller is available, it will make dirt more visible (white Kelmar guide rollers designed for use with platter systems are compatible with the auto-shutoff). | ||
*Always remove spindles when not in use. If someone walks into them, they are easily bent. | |||
*If someone walks into them, they are easily bent. | |||
''Tip: In low humidity or when winding between two plastic reels, static can build up during rewind. While holding the film with your left hand to inspect it, you can ground yourself by placing the finger of your right hand on the edge of the throttle control knob where it meets the metal case. This will dissipate any static build-up and prevent you from getting shocked.'' | ''Tip: In low humidity or when winding between two plastic reels, static can build up during rewind. While holding the film with your left hand to inspect it, you can ground yourself by placing the finger of your right hand on the edge of the throttle control knob where it meets the metal case. This will dissipate any static build-up and prevent you from getting shocked.'' | ||
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**5/16” with extended key for plastic shipping reels (reduces wear on plastic keyway; especially beneficial for reels with detachable flanges) | **5/16” with extended key for plastic shipping reels (reduces wear on plastic keyway; especially beneficial for reels with detachable flanges) | ||
**5/16” with drive pin (also called a “reel dog”) for large reels | **5/16” with drive pin (also called a “reel dog”) for large reels | ||
**5/16” with finger hole drive | **5/16” with finger hole drive for large reels | ||
**1/2" with drive pin for large 35mm reels (shorter than 70mm shaft) | **1/2" with drive pin for large 35mm reels (shorter than 70mm shaft) | ||
**1/2" with finger drive for modular platter reels | **1/2" with finger drive for modular platter reels | ||
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Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. A small allen wrench can be used to gently drive the pin out if necessary. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. The pad can be cleaned with a spray degreaser like 409 or a degreasing dish detergent to keep it clean. Apply the degreaser, rub it in with a cloth to remove any oil, wipe it off and clean it with a paper towel, and rub it dry. Let the pad fully air dry before reinstalling. This should be done once a year if film is run infrequently. Always stock spare felt pads so that a worn pad can be replaced immediately. | Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. A small allen wrench can be used to gently drive the pin out if necessary. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. The pad can be cleaned with a spray degreaser like 409 or a degreasing dish detergent to keep it clean. Apply the degreaser, rub it in with a cloth to remove any oil, wipe it off and clean it with a paper towel, and rub it dry. Let the pad fully air dry before reinstalling. This should be done once a year if film is run infrequently. Always stock spare felt pads so that a worn pad can be replaced immediately. | ||
Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side. If the clutch plate worn or pitted, super fine steel wool (0000 | Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side. If the clutch plate worn or pitted, super fine steel wool (#0000) can be used to smooth down the plate. | ||
Do NOT apply oil to the felt pad. This will attract dirt, and will cause the friction level to drift much faster than would occur due to natural wear on the felt pad. This throws the friction clutch out of calibration and requires re-oiling. An overly oiled pad will also spray oil when it rotates, making a mess and possibly leading to [[print contaminant|print contamination]]. | Do NOT apply oil to the felt pad. This will attract dirt, and will cause the friction level to drift much faster than would occur due to natural wear on the felt pad. This throws the friction clutch out of calibration and requires re-oiling. An overly oiled pad will also spray oil when it rotates, making a mess and possibly leading to [[print contaminant|print contamination]]. | ||
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===Belt Replacement=== | ===Belt Replacement=== | ||
Belt wear can cause slippage, lost motion in the takeup, and a laboring takeup (especially for large reels or 70mm). If you feel the tension slipping or hear thumping or other noises that may indicate a problem, remove the cover to check the belt for wear. Upon inspection, a belt may exhibit cracking, or the text printed on the belt may show stretching and wear. | |||
To replace the belt, the motor and the rear bearing of the main shaft have to be disconnected from the cover. | To replace the belt, the motor and the rear bearing of the main shaft have to be disconnected from the cover. | ||
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To install the new belt, pass it through the opening around the rear bearing of the main shaft and slip it around the main shaft, without yet placing it on the main shaft pulley. Slip it around the drive pulley and reinstall the cap screws that secure the motor standoffs, but leave them loose. Slide the motor towards the main shaft to provide enough slack to slip the belt onto the main shaft pulley. Pull the motor away from the main shaft, making sure that the belt is not making contact with the motor standoffs. When the motor is in a good position, tighten the cap screws to secure it. | To install the new belt, pass it through the opening around the rear bearing of the main shaft and slip it around the main shaft, without yet placing it on the main shaft pulley. Slip it around the drive pulley and reinstall the cap screws that secure the motor standoffs, but leave them loose. Slide the motor towards the main shaft to provide enough slack to slip the belt onto the main shaft pulley. Pull the motor away from the main shaft, making sure that the belt is not making contact with the motor standoffs. When the motor is in a good position, tighten the cap screws to secure it. | ||
''Tip: If you’re having difficulty getting the belt to clear the motor | ''Tip: If you’re having difficulty getting the belt to clear the motor standoffs, standing the power head on its left side will allow you to use gravity to your advantage.'' | ||
After the belt has been reinstalled, run the motor at a low speed and check the alignment. If the alignment seems adequate, gradually increase the motor speed, visually assessing the alignment, checking for contact between the belt and motor standoffs, and observing for any noises or vibrations that might indicate that something is wrong. Replace the cover and continue to test by rewinding a reel of scrap film. Also check the pitch of the film path since the position of the main shaft may have changed when it was reattached. | After the belt has been reinstalled, run the motor at a low speed and check the alignment. If the alignment seems adequate, gradually increase the motor speed, visually assessing the alignment, checking for contact between the belt and motor standoffs, and observing for any noises or vibrations that might indicate that something is wrong. Replace the cover and continue to test by rewinding a reel of scrap film. Also check the pitch of the film path since the position of the main shaft may have changed when it was reattached. | ||
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==Common Issues== | ==Common Issues== | ||
*Contact between belt and motor standoffs. The surface of the | *Contact between belt and motor standoffs. The surface of the standoffs can be ground down where the belt is making contact to give the belt adequate clearance. | ||
*The table surface around the bolts is often damaged due to over-tightening or the use of excess force during rewind. The mica laminate is easily cracked, and the particle board underneath is very weak. Replace washers with a larger size to cover any damage and distribute the pressure over a greater surface area. | *The table surface around the bolts is often damaged due to over-tightening or the use of excess force during rewind. The mica laminate is easily cracked, and the particle board underneath is very weak. Replace washers with a larger size to cover any damage and distribute the pressure over a greater surface area. | ||
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*Remove the power head and drag head. Loose wires can be wrapped and tucked into the drive head for transport. | *Remove the power head and drag head. Loose wires can be wrapped and tucked into the drive head for transport. | ||
*Remove the control unit. | *Remove the control unit. | ||
* | *Remove the plexiglass light box cover. | ||
*Place the table upside-down on the floor, with cardboard or another material in place to protect the surface of the table top. | *Place the table upside-down on the floor, with cardboard or another material in place to protect the surface of the table top. | ||
*Remove the crossbar connecting the legs. | *Remove the crossbar connecting the legs. | ||