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Kinoton FP 38 E: Difference between revisions
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* film break sensors + workarounds | * film break sensors + workarounds | ||
* FSC handbook on gate tension - to revise: Be careful when you are adjusting the focus that you don’t actually adjust the film pressure skate knob. It’s a knob on the front of the Kinoton that adjusts the amount of pressure that the film pressure skate has. Too much pressure and you can damage the film – too little and the film will shake in the gate making the picture shake on screen. There is a scale under the film pressure skate, which should be set in the center. The only time you should ever need to adjust the amount of pressure would be if you were projecting a shrunken or thinner than normal film that is shaking in the gate. | |||
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===Sound Sync=== | ===Sound Sync=== | ||
To ensure that 16mm sound and image are projected in proper sync, you will need to determine the exact number of sprocket holes your projector likes its [[latham loop]] to have. This may require some experimentation with test reels. | To ensure that 16mm sound and image are projected in proper sync, you will need to determine the exact number of sprocket holes your projector likes its [[latham loop]] to have. This may require some experimentation with test reels. | ||
===Magnetic Sound=== | |||
On the bottom left of the 16mm sound head in the top photo (below) you can easily see the 16mm sound switch that allows you to switch between optical and magnetic prints. The switch should be left at the top, “O”, for optical and the bottom, “M”, for magnetic. Optical prints are either variable density or variable area (like 35mm mono), and magnetic soundtracks look like a copper band. If you play a magnetic print, be sure to switch back to “O” when you are done, since optical soundtracks are much more common than magnetic ones (in most situations). | |||
===Threading Procedure=== | ===Threading Procedure=== | ||