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Simplex X-L: Difference between revisions
Added "Maintenance" section, added instructions for pad roller adjustments / cleaning
JesseCrooks (talk | contribs) (→Threading: Added instructions for correcting framing knob position if "FRAME" does not read level) |
JesseCrooks (talk | contribs) (Added "Maintenance" section, added instructions for pad roller adjustments / cleaning) |
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First set the framing mechanism to the center of its travel. Rotate through the entire range of motion to determine the center. Then, from the operator side, press firmly on the framing handle to compress the framing shaft friction spring until the framing gear disengages from the idler gear. Rotate until the word “Frame” reads level, and release to reengage the framing gear. | First set the framing mechanism to the center of its travel. Rotate through the entire range of motion to determine the center. Then, from the operator side, press firmly on the framing handle to compress the framing shaft friction spring until the framing gear disengages from the idler gear. Rotate until the word “Frame” reads level, and release to reengage the framing gear. | ||
==Maintenance== | |||
===Pad Rollers=== | |||
[[File:Pad roller eccentric shaft.jpg|right|thumb|300px|The eccentric shaft of Simplex X-L pad roller.]] | |||
[[File:Pad roller spring.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A pad roller spring compressed with a paper clip.]] | |||
Pad rollers should be checked periodically for wear, and replaced as necessary (check for flat spots or chamfering). They should spin freely without binding on the sprocket. There should be no resistance due to the build-up of dirt and oil. | |||
There are two primary considerations when adjusting pad rollers, the depth stop between the roller and the sprocket, and the lateral play on the shaft. | |||
Pad rollers should be set to clear the sprockets by two thicknesses of acetate film. The stops for the pad roller arms consist of an adjusting screw that serves as a depth stop, and a nut to lock the adjusting screw in place. On each pad roller arm, one of the roller shafts is straight, and the other is eccentric. To make the adjustment, first loosen the set screw on the inboard end of the eccentric shaft and rotate it so that the eccentric roller is as far from the sprocket as possible, then adjust the stop so that the roller on the straight shaft is two film thicknesses from the sprocket. Tighten the lock nut, then rotate the eccentric shaft until that roller is also two film thicknesses from the sprocket, and tighten the eccentric shaft set screw. | |||
When setting the lateral position of the roller on the shaft, it should be set with the minimum amount of play required for the roller to spin freely when lowered towards the sprocket. It may be necessary to shim the roller with washers on the inboard end. On the straight shaft the lateral position of the entire shaft is adjusted. On the eccentric shaft, the position of the knurled handle sets the lateral position of the roller. | |||
Pad rollers should be removed periodically for cleaning. Remove the roller, clean and remove any corrosion from the shaft, and clean the interior and exterior of the roller. This should be done whenever resistance is felt when spinning the rollers, or at least once a year. There are some variations in pad roller shaft design, but typically for the straight shaft, the entire shaft is removed by loosening the set screw on the pad roller arm. Be careful not to lose any washers that are in place to shim the roller away from the arm. The eccentric shaft has a knurled handle on the outboard end that is usually held in place by a set screw, although in some cases the handle is threaded onto the shaft. For either design, remove the knurled handle in order to remove the roller without affecting the eccentric adjustment. | |||
Be careful not to overtighten any of the set screws, since this can mar the shaft. On the inboard side, this can make it difficult to remove or insert the shaft, and on the outboard side it can create a burr that scratches the inner diameter of the roller. | |||
In dry climates, plastic rollers may be run dry. In climates where humidity is a concern, a small amount of silicone spray can be applied to the roller shafts to prevent corrosion. Spray it onto a cloth, wipe down the shaft, and remove any excess. Do not use oil to lubricate plastic rollers. | |||
For better access to the lower pad roller assembly, remove the spot sight box and the lower rear cover. | |||
====Removing Pad Roller Assemblies==== | |||
To remove the pad roller assemblies entirely, first relieve the tension on the springs. Rotate the assembly to compress the spring. It will be fully compressed shortly before the assembly is in the full open position. There is a hole in one leg of the forked spring guide, which will be revealed when the spring is fully compressed. Insert a paper clip through the hole to relieve the spring tension. This will keep the spring compressed when removing the assembly. Remove the screw and washer holding the pad roller arm against the main casting, and carefully walk the assembly out, ensuring that the clip does not fall out of the hole in the spring guide. After the spring clears the guide pin, remove it before removing the rest of the assembly. | |||
If you lose control of the spring and it comes apart, it may be possible to recompress the spring using the film slot on the main casting. On X-Ls with a narrow film slot at the top of the head, place the spring assembly on the outboard edge of the casting with the solid leg of the fork in the film slot, and the leg of the fork with the pinhole slightly overshooting the outboard edge of the projector head. Compress the spring and pass a pin through the hole. | |||
==External Links== | ==External Links== | ||