Kelmar RTV-8900 - Revision history

JesseCrooks: /* Friction Clutch */ Typo

2022-01-17T20:53:10Z

Friction Clutch: Typo

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:53, 17 January 2022
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	Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. If the pin is relatively loose, a 5/32 Allen wrench can be used to drive it out. If the pin is difficult to remove, it can be driven through using a pin punch. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. The pad can be cleaned with a spray degreaser like 409 or a degreasing dish detergent to keep it clean. Apply the degreaser, rub it in with a cloth to remove any oil, wipe it off and clean it with a paper towel, and rub it dry. Let the pad fully air dry before reinstalling. This should be done once a year if film is run infrequently. Always stock spare felt pads so that a worn pad can be replaced immediately.		Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. If the pin is relatively loose, a 5/32 Allen wrench can be used to drive it out. If the pin is difficult to remove, it can be driven through using a pin punch. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. The pad can be cleaned with a spray degreaser like 409 or a degreasing dish detergent to keep it clean. Apply the degreaser, rub it in with a cloth to remove any oil, wipe it off and clean it with a paper towel, and rub it dry. Let the pad fully air dry before reinstalling. This should be done once a year if film is run infrequently. Always stock spare felt pads so that a worn pad can be replaced immediately.

	Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side. If the clutch plate worn or pitted, super fine steel wool (#0000) can be used to smooth down the plate.		Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side. If the clutch plate is worn or pitted, super fine steel wool (#0000) can be used to smooth down the plate.

	Do NOT apply oil to the felt pad. This will attract dirt, and will cause the friction level to drift much faster than would occur due to natural wear on the felt pad. This throws the friction clutch out of calibration and requires re-oiling. An overly oiled pad will also spray oil when it rotates, making a mess and possibly leading to [[print contaminant\|print contamination]].		Do NOT apply oil to the felt pad. This will attract dirt, and will cause the friction level to drift much faster than would occur due to natural wear on the felt pad. This throws the friction clutch out of calibration and requires re-oiling. An overly oiled pad will also spray oil when it rotates, making a mess and possibly leading to [[print contaminant\|print contamination]].

JesseCrooks: Removed broken link

2020-05-22T00:51:48Z

Removed broken link

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:51, 21 May 2020
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	The '''Kelmar RTV-8900''' is a versatile [[rewind bench\|rewind table]] that can accommodate [[16mm]], [[35mm]], and [[70mm]] film, and provides excellent control of motor speed and holdback tension. It features a variable speed bidirectional motor, an adjustable friction clutch for regulating feed tension, interchangeable ~~[[rewind~~ spindles~~\|spindles]]~~ to accommodate various [[film gauges]] and reel sizes, a built-in light box for [[inspection\|film inspection]], and an automatic rewind system. The RTV-8900 comes in a full-size 24” deep version or a slim 14” version. A model with two power heads is also available.		The '''Kelmar RTV-8900''' is a versatile [[rewind bench\|rewind table]] that can accommodate [[16mm]], [[35mm]], and [[70mm]] film, and provides excellent control of motor speed and holdback tension. It features a variable speed bidirectional motor, an adjustable friction clutch for regulating feed tension, interchangeable spindles to accommodate various [[film gauges]] and reel sizes, a built-in light box for [[inspection\|film inspection]], and an automatic rewind system. The RTV-8900 comes in a full-size 24” deep version or a slim 14” version. A model with two power heads is also available.

	The control unit and rewinds can also be attached to other tables (ex., to replace hand-crank rewinds on vintage rewind benches).		The control unit and rewinds can also be attached to other tables (ex., to replace hand-crank rewinds on vintage rewind benches).

JesseCrooks: /* Belt Alignment */

2020-04-11T01:47:08Z

Belt Alignment

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:47, 10 April 2020
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	Run the motor at a low speed and check the alignment. If the alignment seems adequate, gradually increase the motor speed, visually assessing the alignment, checking for contact between the belt and motor standoffs, and observing for any noises or vibrations that might indicate that something is wrong.		Run the motor at a low speed and check the alignment. If the alignment seems adequate, gradually increase the motor speed, visually assessing the alignment, checking for contact between the belt and motor standoffs, and observing for any noises or vibrations that might indicate that something is wrong.

			To achieve adequate clearance between the belt and the motor standoffs, it may be necessary to turn the drive head on its side, with the motor facing down in order to use gravity to assist the alignment. However, it is also possible to over-tighten the belt in this manner. If excessive vibration is detected after alignment, the belt may be too tight and the motor may need to be moved closer to the main shaft. If it is impossible to achieve adequate clearance between the belt and the motor standoffs (in addition to being gauged by eye, a lack of clearance will be evidenced by belt shaves being worn off due to contact with the standoffs), the standoffs maybe be filed down to prevent contact with the belt.

	<gallery widths=300px heights=300px mode=packed>		<gallery widths=300px heights=300px mode=packed>

JesseCrooks at 01:55, 1 October 2019

2019-10-01T01:55:10Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:55, 30 September 2019
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	==External links==		==External links==
	*[http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/manuals/KELRTV8900.pdf Kelmar RTV-8900 Manual]		*[http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/manuals/KELRTV8900.pdf Kelmar RTV-8900 Manual]
	*[https://www.kelmarsystems.com/ Kelmar website] - See the Archival Products Catalog for film equipment..		*[https://www.kelmarsystems.com/ Kelmar website] - See the Archival Products Catalog for film equipment.

	[[Category:Film handling]]		[[Category:Film handling]]
	[[Category:Tools]]		[[Category:Tools]]
	[[Category: Equipment]]		[[Category: Equipment]]

JesseCrooks: /* Friction Clutch */

2019-10-01T01:51:07Z

Friction Clutch

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:51, 30 September 2019
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	===Friction Clutch===		===Friction Clutch===
	Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. ~~A small allen~~ wrench can be used to ~~gently~~ drive the pin ~~out if necessary~~. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. The pad can be cleaned with a spray degreaser like 409 or a degreasing dish detergent to keep it clean. Apply the degreaser, rub it in with a cloth to remove any oil, wipe it off and clean it with a paper towel, and rub it dry. Let the pad fully air dry before reinstalling. This should be done once a year if film is run infrequently. Always stock spare felt pads so that a worn pad can be replaced immediately.		Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. If the pin is relatively loose, a 5/32 Allen wrench can be used to drive it out. If the pin is difficult to remove, it can be driven through using a pin punch. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. The pad can be cleaned with a spray degreaser like 409 or a degreasing dish detergent to keep it clean. Apply the degreaser, rub it in with a cloth to remove any oil, wipe it off and clean it with a paper towel, and rub it dry. Let the pad fully air dry before reinstalling. This should be done once a year if film is run infrequently. Always stock spare felt pads so that a worn pad can be replaced immediately.

	Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side. If the clutch plate worn or pitted, super fine steel wool (#0000) can be used to smooth down the plate.		Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side. If the clutch plate worn or pitted, super fine steel wool (#0000) can be used to smooth down the plate.

JesseCrooks at 18:30, 13 February 2019

2019-02-13T18:30:01Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:30, 13 February 2019
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	*Make sure this is no slack in the film before starting the motor.		*Make sure this is no slack in the film before starting the motor.
	*Always adjust motor speed gradually to prevent damage.		*Always adjust motor speed gradually to prevent damage.
	*If the STOP button is used, always dial the ~~engine~~ speed back to zero to prevent a sudden start.		*If the STOP button is used, always dial the motor speed back to zero to prevent a sudden start.
	*Make sure that the spindles are fully seated. If not, they can shift towards the operator, resulting in a misaligned film path and improper rotation.		*Make sure that the spindles are fully seated. If not, they can shift towards the operator, resulting in a misaligned film path and improper rotation.
	*When winding backwards off the takeup reel, make sure to set the takeup direction to neutral and rotate the reel backwards with your hand (do NOT pull on the film to rewind it, which will cause cinch scratching). Reversing the motor direction to feed the film back for long distances is not advisable because it gives you less control, and it risk spilling film onto the floor.		*When winding backwards off the takeup reel, make sure to set the takeup direction to neutral and rotate the reel backwards with your hand (do NOT pull on the film to rewind it, which will cause cinch scratching). Reversing the motor direction to feed the film back for long distances is not advisable because it gives you less control, and it risk spilling film onto the floor.
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	*Kelmar spindles are somewhat weaker than other models. If the spindles get bent or become orbital (the tip of the spindle will wobble rather than spinning evenly on its axis) replace them.		*Kelmar spindles are somewhat weaker than other models. If the spindles get bent or become orbital (the tip of the spindle will wobble rather than spinning evenly on its axis) replace them.

			*The throttle knob is connected to a carbon wiping brush that controls a variable transformer to regulate motor power. This brush can wear down, causing the motor to cut out intermittently at lower speeds. It will still operate normally at higher speeds, because the higher current can arc despite the worn brush. If the motor is cutting out at low speeds, contact a service technician for repair.

	==Moving a Kelmar table==		==Moving a Kelmar table==

JesseCrooks at 18:02, 13 February 2019

2019-02-13T18:02:18Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:02, 13 February 2019
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	===Spindle Detente===		===Spindle Detente===
	When the spindle is inserted into the receiver, a detent pin locks it in position. If the spindle is too difficult to insert or remove from the spindle receiver, or if it slips out too easily, the pressure with which the detent holds the spindle in place can be adjusted. Remove the cover of the head and locate the detente, which is a screw head held in place by a lock nut on ~~the top of~~ the spindle receiver. Loosen the lock nut to free the detente, adjust it to the desired position, and retighten the lock nut.		When the spindle is inserted into the receiver, a detent pin locks it in position. If the spindle is too difficult to insert or remove from the spindle receiver, or if it slips out too easily, the pressure with which the detent holds the spindle in place can be adjusted. Remove the cover of the head and locate the detente, which is a screw head held in place by a lock nut in a collar on the spindle receiver. Loosen the lock nut to free the detente, adjust it to the desired position, and retighten the lock nut.

	To adjust the detent on the main drive shaft, it may be necessary to move the pulley away from the detent collar in order to have enough room to rotate the lock nut. To reposition the pulley, loosen the set screw located on the shoulder of the non-operator side. If you adjust the pulley, check the belt alignment after you’ve returned it to its original position.		To adjust the detent on the main drive shaft, it may be necessary to move the pulley away from the detent collar in order to have enough room to rotate the lock nut. To reposition the pulley, loosen the set screw located on the shoulder of the non-operator side. If you adjust the pulley, check the belt alignment after you’ve returned it to its original position.

JesseCrooks at 17:58, 13 February 2019

2019-02-13T17:58:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:58, 13 February 2019
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	The '''Kelmar RTV-8900''' is a versatile rewind table that can accommodate [[16mm]], [[35mm]], and [[70mm]] film, and provides excellent control of motor speed and holdback tension. It features a variable speed bidirectional motor, an adjustable friction clutch for regulating feed tension, interchangeable [[rewind spindles\|spindles]] to accommodate various [[film gauges]] and reel sizes, a built-in light box for [[inspection\|film inspection]], and an automatic rewind system. The RTV-8900 comes in a full-size 24” deep version or a slim 14” version. A model with two power heads is also available.		The '''Kelmar RTV-8900''' is a versatile [[rewind bench\|rewind table]] that can accommodate [[16mm]], [[35mm]], and [[70mm]] film, and provides excellent control of motor speed and holdback tension. It features a variable speed bidirectional motor, an adjustable friction clutch for regulating feed tension, interchangeable [[rewind spindles\|spindles]] to accommodate various [[film gauges]] and reel sizes, a built-in light box for [[inspection\|film inspection]], and an automatic rewind system. The RTV-8900 comes in a full-size 24” deep version or a slim 14” version. A model with two power heads is also available.

	The control unit and rewinds can also be attached to other tables (ex., to replace hand-crank rewinds on vintage rewind benches).		The control unit and rewinds can also be attached to other tables (ex., to replace hand-crank rewinds on vintage rewind benches).
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	*Make sure that the spindles are fully seated. If not, they can shift towards the operator, resulting in a misaligned film path and improper rotation.		*Make sure that the spindles are fully seated. If not, they can shift towards the operator, resulting in a misaligned film path and improper rotation.
	*When winding backwards off the takeup reel, make sure to set the takeup direction to neutral and rotate the reel backwards with your hand (do NOT pull on the film to rewind it, which will cause cinch scratching). Reversing the motor direction to feed the film back for long distances is not advisable because it gives you less control, and it risk spilling film onto the floor.		*When winding backwards off the takeup reel, make sure to set the takeup direction to neutral and rotate the reel backwards with your hand (do NOT pull on the film to rewind it, which will cause cinch scratching). Reversing the motor direction to feed the film back for long distances is not advisable because it gives you less control, and it risk spilling film onto the floor.
	*The guide roller on the automatic rewind arm can sometimes help achieve a smoother wind for film that is spooling unevenly. However, for archival projection it is often better to remove the roller so that it is not an obstacle in the film path. If you do use it, clean it with alcohol before each ~~use.~~		*The guide roller on the automatic rewind arm can sometimes help achieve a smoother wind for film that is spooling unevenly. However, for archival projection it is often better to remove the roller so that it is not an obstacle in the film path. If you do use it, clean it with alcohol before each use. If a white roller is available, it will make dirt more visible (white Kelmar guide rollers designed for use with platter systems are compatible with the auto-shutoff).
	*Always remove spindles when not in use. If a white roller is available, it will make dirt more visible (white ~~kelmar~~ guide rollers designed for ~~interlocking~~ are compatible with the auto-shutoff).		*Always remove spindles when not in use. If someone walks into them, they are easily bent.
	*If someone walks into them, they are easily bent.

	''Tip: In low humidity or when winding between two plastic reels, static can build up during rewind. While holding the film with your left hand to inspect it, you can ground yourself by placing the finger of your right hand on the edge of the throttle control knob where it meets the metal case. This will dissipate any static build-up and prevent you from getting shocked.''		''Tip: In low humidity or when winding between two plastic reels, static can build up during rewind. While holding the film with your left hand to inspect it, you can ground yourself by placing the finger of your right hand on the edge of the throttle control knob where it meets the metal case. This will dissipate any static build-up and prevent you from getting shocked.''
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	**5/16” with extended key for plastic shipping reels (reduces wear on plastic keyway; especially beneficial for reels with detachable flanges)		**5/16” with extended key for plastic shipping reels (reduces wear on plastic keyway; especially beneficial for reels with detachable flanges)
	**5/16” with drive pin (also called a “reel dog”) for large reels		**5/16” with drive pin (also called a “reel dog”) for large reels
	**5/16” with finger hole drive (large reels)		**5/16” with finger hole drive for large reels
	**1/2" with drive pin for large 35mm reels (shorter than 70mm shaft)		**1/2" with drive pin for large 35mm reels (shorter than 70mm shaft)
	**1/2" with finger drive for modular platter reels		**1/2" with finger drive for modular platter reels
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	Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. A small allen wrench can be used to gently drive the pin out if necessary. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. The pad can be cleaned with a spray degreaser like 409 or a degreasing dish detergent to keep it clean. Apply the degreaser, rub it in with a cloth to remove any oil, wipe it off and clean it with a paper towel, and rub it dry. Let the pad fully air dry before reinstalling. This should be done once a year if film is run infrequently. Always stock spare felt pads so that a worn pad can be replaced immediately.		Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. A small allen wrench can be used to gently drive the pin out if necessary. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. The pad can be cleaned with a spray degreaser like 409 or a degreasing dish detergent to keep it clean. Apply the degreaser, rub it in with a cloth to remove any oil, wipe it off and clean it with a paper towel, and rub it dry. Let the pad fully air dry before reinstalling. This should be done once a year if film is run infrequently. Always stock spare felt pads so that a worn pad can be replaced immediately.

	Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side. If the clutch plate worn or pitted, super fine steel wool (0000#) can be used to smooth down the plate.		Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side. If the clutch plate worn or pitted, super fine steel wool (#0000) can be used to smooth down the plate.

	Do NOT apply oil to the felt pad. This will attract dirt, and will cause the friction level to drift much faster than would occur due to natural wear on the felt pad. This throws the friction clutch out of calibration and requires re-oiling. An overly oiled pad will also spray oil when it rotates, making a mess and possibly leading to [[print contaminant\|print contamination]].		Do NOT apply oil to the felt pad. This will attract dirt, and will cause the friction level to drift much faster than would occur due to natural wear on the felt pad. This throws the friction clutch out of calibration and requires re-oiling. An overly oiled pad will also spray oil when it rotates, making a mess and possibly leading to [[print contaminant\|print contamination]].
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	===Belt Replacement===		===Belt Replacement===
			Belt wear can cause slippage, lost motion in the takeup, and a laboring takeup (especially for large reels or 70mm). If you feel the tension slipping or hear thumping or other noises that may indicate a problem, remove the cover to check the belt for wear. Upon inspection, a belt may exhibit cracking, or the text printed on the belt may show stretching and wear.

	To replace the belt, the motor and the rear bearing of the main shaft have to be disconnected from the cover.		To replace the belt, the motor and the rear bearing of the main shaft have to be disconnected from the cover.

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	To install the new belt, pass it through the opening around the rear bearing of the main shaft and slip it around the main shaft, without yet placing it on the main shaft pulley. Slip it around the drive pulley and reinstall the cap screws that secure the motor standoffs, but leave them loose. Slide the motor towards the main shaft to provide enough slack to slip the belt onto the main shaft pulley. Pull the motor away from the main shaft, making sure that the belt is not making contact with the motor standoffs. When the motor is in a good position, tighten the cap screws to secure it.		To install the new belt, pass it through the opening around the rear bearing of the main shaft and slip it around the main shaft, without yet placing it on the main shaft pulley. Slip it around the drive pulley and reinstall the cap screws that secure the motor standoffs, but leave them loose. Slide the motor towards the main shaft to provide enough slack to slip the belt onto the main shaft pulley. Pull the motor away from the main shaft, making sure that the belt is not making contact with the motor standoffs. When the motor is in a good position, tighten the cap screws to secure it.

	''Tip: If you’re having difficulty getting the belt to clear the motor ~~mounts~~, standing the power head on its left side will allow you to use gravity to your advantage.''		''Tip: If you’re having difficulty getting the belt to clear the motor standoffs, standing the power head on its left side will allow you to use gravity to your advantage.''

	After the belt has been reinstalled, run the motor at a low speed and check the alignment. If the alignment seems adequate, gradually increase the motor speed, visually assessing the alignment, checking for contact between the belt and motor standoffs, and observing for any noises or vibrations that might indicate that something is wrong. Replace the cover and continue to test by rewinding a reel of scrap film. Also check the pitch of the film path since the position of the main shaft may have changed when it was reattached.		After the belt has been reinstalled, run the motor at a low speed and check the alignment. If the alignment seems adequate, gradually increase the motor speed, visually assessing the alignment, checking for contact between the belt and motor standoffs, and observing for any noises or vibrations that might indicate that something is wrong. Replace the cover and continue to test by rewinding a reel of scrap film. Also check the pitch of the film path since the position of the main shaft may have changed when it was reattached.
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	==Common Issues==		==Common Issues==
	*Contact between belt and motor standoffs. The surface of the ~~motor mounts~~ can be ground down where the belt is making contact to give the belt adequate clearance.		*Contact between belt and motor standoffs. The surface of the standoffs can be ground down where the belt is making contact to give the belt adequate clearance.

	*The table surface around the bolts is often damaged due to over-tightening or the use of excess force during rewind. The mica laminate is easily cracked, and the particle board underneath is very weak. Replace washers with a larger size to cover any damage and distribute the pressure over a greater surface area.		*The table surface around the bolts is often damaged due to over-tightening or the use of excess force during rewind. The mica laminate is easily cracked, and the particle board underneath is very weak. Replace washers with a larger size to cover any damage and distribute the pressure over a greater surface area.
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	*Remove the power head and drag head. Loose wires can be wrapped and tucked into the drive head for transport.		*Remove the power head and drag head. Loose wires can be wrapped and tucked into the drive head for transport.
	*Remove the control unit.		*Remove the control unit.
	*If the plexiglass light box cover ~~is loose, remove it~~.		*Remove the plexiglass light box cover.
	*Place the table upside-down on the floor, with cardboard or another material in place to protect the surface of the table top.		*Place the table upside-down on the floor, with cardboard or another material in place to protect the surface of the table top.
	*Remove the crossbar connecting the legs.		*Remove the crossbar connecting the legs.

JesseCrooks at 04:59, 13 February 2019

2019-02-13T04:59:51Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:59, 12 February 2019
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	*When winding backwards off the takeup reel, make sure to set the takeup direction to neutral and rotate the reel backwards with your hand (do NOT pull on the film to rewind it, which will cause cinch scratching). Reversing the motor direction to feed the film back for long distances is not advisable because it gives you less control, and it risk spilling film onto the floor.		*When winding backwards off the takeup reel, make sure to set the takeup direction to neutral and rotate the reel backwards with your hand (do NOT pull on the film to rewind it, which will cause cinch scratching). Reversing the motor direction to feed the film back for long distances is not advisable because it gives you less control, and it risk spilling film onto the floor.
	*The guide roller on the automatic rewind arm can sometimes help achieve a smoother wind for film that is spooling unevenly. However, for archival projection it is often better to remove the roller so that it is not an obstacle in the film path. If you do use it, clean it with alcohol before each use.		*The guide roller on the automatic rewind arm can sometimes help achieve a smoother wind for film that is spooling unevenly. However, for archival projection it is often better to remove the roller so that it is not an obstacle in the film path. If you do use it, clean it with alcohol before each use.
	*Always remove spindles when not in use. If someone walks into them, they are easily bent.		*Always remove spindles when not in use. If a white roller is available, it will make dirt more visible (white kelmar guide rollers designed for interlocking are compatible with the auto-shutoff).
			*If someone walks into them, they are easily bent.

	''Tip: In low humidity or when winding between two plastic reels, static can build up during rewind. While holding the film with your left hand to inspect it, you can ground yourself by placing the finger of your right hand on the edge of the throttle control knob where it meets the metal case. This will dissipate any static build-up and prevent you from getting shocked.''		''Tip: In low humidity or when winding between two plastic reels, static can build up during rewind. While holding the film with your left hand to inspect it, you can ground yourself by placing the finger of your right hand on the edge of the throttle control knob where it meets the metal case. This will dissipate any static build-up and prevent you from getting shocked.''
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	[[File:Kelmar rewind spindles.JPG\|right\|thumb\|300px\|Kelmar rewind spindles. From left to right: 5/16" spindle with drive key, 5/16" spindle with drive pin, 1/2" spindle with finger hole drive.]]		[[File:Kelmar rewind spindles.JPG\|right\|thumb\|300px\|Kelmar rewind spindles. From left to right: 5/16" spindle with drive key, 5/16" spindle with drive pin, 1/2" spindle with finger hole drive.]]
	*Interchangeable spindles		*Interchangeable spindles
	**5/16” with key		**5/16” with key (standard spindle for reels up to 3,000’)
	**5/16” with extended key for plastic shipping reels		**5/16” with extended key for plastic shipping reels (reduces wear on plastic keyway; especially beneficial for reels with detachable flanges)
	**5/16” with drive pin (also called a “reel dog”) for large reels		**5/16” with drive pin (also called a “reel dog”) for large reels
	**5/16” with finger ~~hold~~ drive		**5/16” with finger hole drive (large reels)
	**1/2" with drive pin for large 35mm reels (shorter than 70mm shaft)		**1/2" with drive pin for large 35mm reels (shorter than 70mm shaft)
	**1/2" with finger drive for modular platter reels		**1/2" with finger drive for modular platter reels
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	*Handle for manual rewind		*Handle for manual rewind
	*Mounting bracket for a [[Neumade Film Measuring Machine]]		*Mounting bracket for a [[Neumade Film Measuring Machine]]
	*Screw mount on the front of the table accommodates a bracket to hold a Neumade frame counter. This allows the frame counter to align with the film path.		**Screw mount on the front of the table accommodates a bracket to hold a Neumade frame counter. This allows the frame counter to align with the film path.
	*Replacement ~~belts~~: 3L260 V belt - Available at most small engine repair shops.		*Replacement belt
			**Belt size: 3L260 V belt
			**Available at most small engine repair shops

	==Calibration==		==Calibration==
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	To align the belt, adjust the position of the pulleys. The pulley on the drive shaft is secured by a set screw in the middle of the belt groove, and the pulley on the main shaft is secured by a set screw on the shoulder that extends from the pulley on the non-operator side.		To align the belt, adjust the position of the pulleys. The pulley on the drive shaft is secured by a set screw in the middle of the belt groove, and the pulley on the main shaft is secured by a set screw on the shoulder that extends from the pulley on the non-operator side.

	~~To align the belt, first~~ make sure the pulley on the main shaft is backed up against the collar that holds the spindle detent, which is always in a fixed position on the shaft. Then adjust the drive pulley to align with the pulley on the main shaft.		First make sure the pulley on the main shaft is backed up against the collar that holds the spindle detent, which is always in a fixed position on the shaft. Then adjust the drive pulley to align with the pulley on the main shaft.

			Run the motor at a low speed and check the alignment. If the alignment seems adequate, gradually increase the motor speed, visually assessing the alignment, checking for contact between the belt and motor standoffs, and observing for any noises or vibrations that might indicate that something is wrong.

	<gallery widths=300px heights=300px mode=packed>		<gallery widths=300px heights=300px mode=packed>
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	===Friction Clutch===		===Friction Clutch===
	Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. A small allen wrench can be used to gently drive the pin out if necessary. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side.		Check periodically for dirt and wear. Remove the knurled nut, spring, and pressure plate. The felt pad is retained by a spring pin, which can be difficult to remove if there is significant dirt built-up. A small allen wrench can be used to gently drive the pin out if necessary. Remove the pin to free the felt pad. Clean the pad as necessary and replace it when worn. The pad can be cleaned with a spray degreaser like 409 or a degreasing dish detergent to keep it clean. Apply the degreaser, rub it in with a cloth to remove any oil, wipe it off and clean it with a paper towel, and rub it dry. Let the pad fully air dry before reinstalling. This should be done once a year if film is run infrequently. Always stock spare felt pads so that a worn pad can be replaced immediately.

			Clean the spring pin, pressure plate, and clutch plate, and check for wear. If the pressure plate is worn, it can be flipped to use the other side. If the clutch plate worn or pitted, super fine steel wool (0000#) can be used to smooth down the plate.

	Do NOT apply oil to the felt pad. This will attract dirt, and will cause the friction level to drift much faster than would occur due to natural wear on the felt pad. This throws the friction clutch out of calibration and requires re-oiling. An overly oiled pad will also spray oil when it rotates, making a mess and possibly leading to [[print contaminant\|print contamination]].		Do NOT apply oil to the felt pad. This will attract dirt, and will cause the friction level to drift much faster than would occur due to natural wear on the felt pad. This throws the friction clutch out of calibration and requires re-oiling. An overly oiled pad will also spray oil when it rotates, making a mess and possibly leading to [[print contaminant\|print contamination]].

	<gallery widths=300px heights=300px mode=packed>		<gallery widths=300px heights=300px mode=packed>
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	==Moving a Kelmar table==		==Moving a Kelmar table==

	Kelmar tables are made of relatively weak materials, and are prone to damage if moved when fully assembled. Specifically, the particle board table top is easily stressed and the sheet metal braces are easily bent. When moving a Kelmar table for more than a short distance, it should be disassembled.		Kelmar tables are made of relatively weak materials, and are prone to damage if moved when fully assembled. Specifically, the particle board table top is easily stressed and the sheet metal braces are easily bent. When moving a Kelmar table for more than a short distance, it should be disassembled. The table should always be moved by two people.

	Disassembly		Disassembly

JesseCrooks at 06:41, 11 February 2019

2019-02-11T06:41:50Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:41, 10 February 2019
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	===Spindle Detente===		===Spindle Detente===
	~~[[File:Kelmar spindle detent.JPG\|right\|thumb\|300px\|Collar holding the spindle detent pin in the drag head. Loosen the lock nut to adjust the pin.]]~~
	When the spindle is inserted into the receiver, a detent pin locks it in position. If the spindle is too difficult to insert or remove from the spindle receiver, or if it slips out too easily, the pressure with which the detent holds the spindle in place can be adjusted. Remove the cover of the head and locate the detente, which is a screw head held in place by a lock nut on the top of the spindle receiver. Loosen the lock nut to free the detente, adjust it to the desired position, and retighten the lock nut.		When the spindle is inserted into the receiver, a detent pin locks it in position. If the spindle is too difficult to insert or remove from the spindle receiver, or if it slips out too easily, the pressure with which the detent holds the spindle in place can be adjusted. Remove the cover of the head and locate the detente, which is a screw head held in place by a lock nut on the top of the spindle receiver. Loosen the lock nut to free the detente, adjust it to the desired position, and retighten the lock nut.

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	To align the belt, first make sure the pulley on the main shaft is backed up against the collar that holds the spindle detent, which is always in a fixed position on the shaft. Then adjust the drive pulley to align with the pulley on the main shaft.		To align the belt, first make sure the pulley on the main shaft is backed up against the collar that holds the spindle detent, which is always in a fixed position on the shaft. Then adjust the drive pulley to align with the pulley on the main shaft.

	[[File:Kelmar rewind drive belt.jpg~~\|center\|thumb\|500px~~\|Belt running from drive pulley (left) to main pulley.]]		<gallery widths=300px heights=300px mode=packed>
			File:Kelmar rewind drive belt.jpg\|Belt running from drive pulley (left) to main pulley.
			File:Kelmar spindle detent.JPG\|Collar holding the spindle detent pin in the drag head. Loosen the lock nut to adjust the pin.
			</gallery>

	==Maintenance==		==Maintenance==