Cues: Difference between revisions

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==Different Types of Cues and Cue Making Tools==

'''Click to enlarge:'''

File:Scratchcue.jpg| ''~~Scratch~~ cue''

File:Scratchcue.jpg| ''scribe cue''

File:handdrawn_cue.jpeg| ''hand drawn cue''

File:Desert fury.jpg| ''technicolor lab cue''

File:Diner.jpg| ''typical lab cue''

File:punch cue.jpg| ''square punch cue''

File:The_Road_back.JPG| ''~~scratch~~ cue''

File:The_Road_back.JPG| ''scribe cue''

File:Cuemaker2.jpg| ''tool for making ~~scratch~~ cues''

File:Square_cues.jpg| ''square cue''

File:Cuemaker2.jpg| ''tool for making scribe cues''

File: Film ruler.jpeg| ''Mercer 16mm/35mm film ruler, available at [http://www.christys.net/ Christy's]''

File:Cement click cue.JPG| ''cement click cue''

</gallery>

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* You may notice that the length of film between the number you thread to on the countdown and the first image is longer than the amount of footage between cues. That extra footage is to account for the time it takes for the motor to ramp up. Some projector motors take longer to come up to constant speed, in which case you might thread to a lower number to make up for that. Get to know the projector you're working with and run test reels so you can determine the correct number to thread to.

*If a film has been previously cued but say the changeover cue has been spliced off, you may want to count back less than 18 frames to avoid clipping anymore of the film than you have to. I would say 10 at the minimum to avoid having a pretty bad changeover.

*Making cues on a fade out: If there’s no splice to help you, look for when the audio ends and use your best judgement. There should be a lab splice or a splice from the negative that you can count back 172 frames from so you can mark your motor cue. You won't need to make a changeover cue, because the fadeout itself will be your cue. Don't forget to use your ~~eyes~~ as sometimes audio will continue after the image fades out!

*Making cues on a fade out: If there’s no splice to help you, look for when the audio ends and use your best judgement. There should be a lab splice or a splice from the negative that you can count back 172 frames from so you can mark your motor cue. You won't need to make a changeover cue, because the fadeout itself will be your cue. Don't forget to use your ears as sometimes audio will continue after the image fades out!

[[File:Bad grease cues.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Incorrectly made grease cues (too large, marked on emulsion side, and lab cues were perfectly fine at only 18 frames from the end!)]]

[[File:Bad grease cues 2.jpeg|center|thumb|300px|So bad! Very very bad!]]

==Related Articles==

*[[Foil cues]]

*[[Changeover]]

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~~[[Category:Film components]]~~

[[Category:Film handling]]

[[Category:Film prints]]

[[Category:Technique]]

[[Category:Showmanship]]

@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 ==Different Types of Cues and Cue Making Tools==
 '''Click to enlarge:'''
-<gallery widths=150px heights=150px mode=packed>
+<gallery widths=225px heights=225px mode=packed>
-File:Scratchcue.jpg| ''Scratch cue''
+File:Scratchcue.jpg| ''scribe cue''
+File:handdrawn_cue.jpeg| ''hand drawn cue''
 File:Desert fury.jpg| ''technicolor lab cue''
 File:Diner.jpg| ''typical lab cue''
 File:punch cue.jpg|  ''square punch cue''
-File:The_Road_back.JPG| ''scratch cue''
+File:The_Road_back.JPG| ''scribe cue''
-File:Cuemaker2.jpg| ''tool for making scratch cues''
+File:Square_cues.jpg| ''square cue''
+File:Cuemaker2.jpg| ''tool for making scribe cues''
 File: Film ruler.jpeg| ''Mercer 16mm/35mm film ruler, available at [http://www.christys.net/ Christy's]''
+File:Cement click cue.JPG| ''cement click cue''
 </gallery>
@@ Line 36: / Line 39: @@
 * You may notice that the length of film between the number you thread to on the countdown and the first image is longer than the amount of footage between cues. That extra footage is to account for the time it takes for the motor to ramp up. Some projector motors take longer to come up to constant speed, in which case you might thread to a lower number to make up for that. Get to know the projector you're working with and run test reels so you can determine the correct number to thread to.
 *If a film has been previously cued but say the changeover cue has been spliced off, you may want to count back less than 18 frames to avoid clipping anymore of the film than you have to. I would say 10 at the minimum to avoid having a pretty bad changeover.
-*Making cues on a fade out:  If there’s no splice to help you, look for when the audio ends and use your best judgement. There should be a lab splice or a splice from the negative that you can count back 172 frames from so you can mark your motor cue. You won't need to make a changeover cue, because the fadeout itself will be your cue. Don't forget to use your eyes as sometimes audio will continue after the image fades out!
+*Making cues on a fade out:  If there’s no splice to help you, look for when the audio ends and use your best judgement. There should be a lab splice or a splice from the negative that you can count back 172 frames from so you can mark your motor cue. You won't need to make a changeover cue, because the fadeout itself will be your cue. Don't forget to use your ears as sometimes audio will continue after the image fades out!
 [[File:Bad grease cues.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Incorrectly made grease cues (too large, marked on emulsion side, and lab cues were perfectly fine at only 18 frames from the end!)]]
+[[File:Bad grease cues 2.jpeg|center|thumb|300px|So bad! Very very bad!]]
+==Related Articles==
+*[[Foil cues]]
+*[[Changeover]]
@@ Line 43: / Line 53: @@
-[[Category:Film components]]
 [[Category:Film handling]]
 [[Category:Film prints]]
+[[Category:Technique]]
+[[Category:Showmanship]]